February Jobs in the Garden

If you look carefully you will start to see the first signs of spring in the garden this month. Catkins appear on trees, the first bulbs start to poke their heads trough the soil and a few brave flowers begin to appear. With January over, gardeners begin to look forward to spring. But this month can be slow to develop in the garden, so use the time to finish those winter jobs still left to do. Here are the main jobs you should be getting on with this month in the garden and a few of the plants that will be looking their best this early in the year.

General garden tasks

Lime acid soil in readiness for planting brassicas in spring to prevent club root. Make sure that you finish off winter digging, although as February tends to be on the wet side this may prove difficult. Now is also the time to create any new borders or beds in the garden and a time to order plants, particularly plug plants. Prepare for the busy season ahead by cleaning out water storage barrels, watering cans, pots and seed trays.

Jobs in the flower bed

Cut back old dead stems of perennials in herbaceous borders. You might also want to divide old clumps of herbaceous perennials by digging them up, dividing them with a spade or fork and then re-planting the smaller clumps you have made around the garden. Prune winter Jasmine and cut back buddleia to low growing emerging shoots. Now is also the time to plant lily-of-the-valley crowns.

Jobs in the greenhouse

If the weather is not too cold, start dahlia tubers and lily bulbs into growth in the greenhouse. On sunny days ventilate the greenhouse by opening the windows and door, but make sure you water over-wintered plants as little as possible. Clean greenhouse glass to kill of any remaining pests and diseases and to make the most of the winter light. Sow early vegetables such as lettuce, leeks, onions, peas and broad beans in pots. Chit potatoes by standing them in trays in a light but frost-free position.

The vegetable garden

Prepare the soil for early sowing and cover with polythene sheeting to warm it up. Now is the time to plant shallots and Jerusalem artichokes. Finish pruning fruit trees and soft fruit canes and feed with sulphate of potash.

Lawns

As this month tends to see a lot of rainfall, make sure you keep off the lawn as much as possible. However, if the weather is mild and dry you might be able to mow the grass on a high blade setting.

Some plants to look out for in February

You may have seen the first signs of them in January, but now is when snowdrops come into their own. They share this month with winter aconites which poke their sunny yellow heads above the ground about now. Primroses or Primula vulgaris are one of the earliest wildflower to show. Happy to grow in partial shade, their delicate lemon coloured flowers will grace the ground underneath trees or on grassy banks. You can also buy cultivated varieties as bedding plants this month. They come in a variety of colours and will cheer up any garden planters you have empty on a patio. Bergenia or elephant's ears also in flowers this month. Bright pink flowers on tall stems emerge from large fleshy green leaves. Corylus avellana 'Contorta' or twisted hazel looks lovely in February, when fluffy yellow catkins appear on its twisted stems. Hellebores are also a must for this month. I have a large clump of white ones which sit in the middle of a bed of evergreen box balls and stand out brightly on a dull grey February day.

Garden Planters source unusual outdoor and indoor planters, and other garden related gifts - whatever your taste, be it traditional, modern or just a bit quirky, we will have something for you. Run by two qualified and creative gardeners, Garden Planters will also plant up your chosen planter with an arrangement of your choice. We believe garden planters are an integral part of any garden - they enhance the overall design and say a little something about the person to whom the garden belongs.

View the original article here

How to Successfully Germinate Chilli Seeds and Other Plants Using A Propagation Kit

It's great to grow your own fruit, vegetables, chillies and herbs, but for many the struggle is with germination - getting all those wholesome crops to shoot in the first place!

Luckily the answer is a simple one.

For the majority of seed varieties, you will require 2 main ingredients, which are warmth and moisture. Let's take chilli seeds for example: The main reason for unsuccessful or poor germination rates of chilli seeds is down to the warmth factor. You see, although you may sow your chilli seeds in good soil, and keep that soil moist (but not soggy), the seed trays may be left on a windowsill or in the kitchen, where the temperature is warm during the day, but cool at night time.

Chilli seeds need a fairly warm and consistent temperature range in order to germinate properly (between 27-32 degrees C) and the low night time temperatures caused by the heating going off means that the average temperature is low, sending mixed signals to your germinating chilli seeds!

The answer is therefore to use a heated propagator for propagating your seeds for best results, ideally with a thermostat to allow you to control the temperature more accurately. If you don't have a heated propagator, then the next best thing is to use your airing cupboard where the average temperature is much higher, and once seedlings start to emerge, then you can transfer your seedlings to a sunny window sill so that they get lots of light, which is important to grow healthy and strong plants.

If you can get a heated propagator with a lid that is ideal, as many seed varieties also like a bit of humidity to germinate successfully. This means you can also water your seed trays less often as more moisture is retained.

So, now all you have to do is to follow these simple tips to start getting better results germinating your chilli seeds and solve any poor germination problems you may be getting.

And if you really want a headstart and are looking for an easy and consistent way to germinate your seeds, then a propagation kit can also be ideal as they contain special growing media that optimises the moisture/air ratio, which is another factor that can affect germination, thus eliminating guesswork.

All you need to do now is keep your germinating seeds warm and you'll soon be seeing those shoots starting to emerge.

If you found this article informative then you may also be interested in our propagation kits page.

View the original article here

Top 5 Vegetables to Grow in Your Garden

There are many different vegetables that you can grow in your garden this year, but I have, what I think, would be the top 5 best. These are easy to grow, hardy and will give you more vegetables than you know what to do with. They are all very storable, so you can either can or freeze them to enjoy until the next season. Of course, we all know that fresh vegetables not only taste better but are much healthier for us too.

Spinach or Mustard Greens - Greens are one of the easiest vegetables to grow. They seed themselves and will usually come back voluntarily the next year. However, I would recommend that you go ahead and replant new ones, so you will be sure to have enough. Just as the plants are growing shoots up and are going to seed, you want to pick the larger leaves. Wash them thoroughly and strip out the main vein that runs through the leaves. Boil them in some salted water until tender. You can add bacon, ham or other types of meat for flavor. If you have enough, they are easy to store in plastic bags and freeze for the winter.

Onions - Onions are another vegetable that are super easy to grow. You can buy them in small bunches and just barely stick the bulb into the ground. Many people enjoy what is called, "green onions". These are onions that you have dug up before the bulb itself has developed into the ordinary onion. I can eat green onions with salt and crackers all by themselves. Yum! You can also chop the tops and use them in place of chives. Once the tops of the onions have "broken over" the bulb of the onions will continue to grow. The looser the soil is the larger the onion will grow. You can store onions in a cool dry place for a few months. You can also chop the onions coarsely and freeze them for later use in cooking.

Garlic - Garlic is great for cooking and is very healthy for you too. You plant garlic just as you would plant onions. Loosen your soil and just barely cover the bulb with the dirt. Once the garlic has "gone to seed" is when you want to dig them up. You can store garlic in a cool dry place, just like onions. They will actually keep a little longer than onions. Use them fresh in your recipes or chop them coarsely and freeze them for use all year!

Tomatoes - Nothing is better than a fresh, home grown tomato! I love to take the salt shaker with me when I go out to the garden, wash off a ripe tomato, sprinkle a little salt and eat away! You can plant cherry tomatoes to use in salads or larger slicing tomatoes for sandwiches and cooking. With proper watering you can have fresh tomatoes all summer long! You can also can tomatoes and have fresh vine ripe tomatoes for cooking all year. I also add celery, onion and a little garlic and make my own stewed tomatoes for canning. I can tomato sauce and picante sauce also. Add some Italian seasoning and you can have spaghetti sauce too!

Green Beans - Green beans are very easy to grow as long as they get enough water. Plant the seeds about 1 inch in the ground, cover and water! Within a couple of weeks you will start to see little blooms. Each bloom is going to be a green bean pod. Get ready, because when they "put on" you are going to have a lot of green beans all at one time. They will usually have about 3 good cycles before it starts getting too hot for them and the blooming will slow down. It is a little back breaking to pick all those beans, but it is so well worth it! Out of our small garden, we usually can between 30-50 pint jars of green beans each year. We can in pints now as out children and grown and gone. We always have green beans to last us all winter up until they bloom again in spring.

I hope I have given you some good information here on 5 of the best vegetables to plant in your garden this year. Not only will you eat healthier, but I think you will also enjoy your garden!

Sheila Brown is an experienced writer who enjoys writing articles on a variety of topics. She enjoys helping people and hopes her writing will be an outlet for that.

View the original article here

Garden Shrubs for Different Seasons of the Year

Shrubs are a useful asset to any garden. They add height and architectural interest. Evergreen shrubs added to herbaceous borders can give substance to a border and hold interest during winter months when most perennials die down. For the most part they are hardy and easy to maintain, requiring little pruning, and long lived. Here is a guide to a few of my favourite shrubs which will add interest to a garden at different times of the year.

Shrubs for a winter garden

Hamamelis or Witch Hazel has to be a favourite to add winter interest to any garden. It is a winter flowering shrub with spidery flowers and a spicy scent. Flowers come in shades of yellow, orange and reds. Witch Hazel will thrive in any garden but an open sunny position is best. It is quite a large shrub and can grow up to 4m in height. They require little pruning, especially if you have the room to let them grow to their full potential. Just remove any dead or diseased wood. They also have few problems with disease, but look out for honey fungus and vine weevil larvae amongst those grown in containers. Particularly good varieties include Hamamelis x intermedia 'Barmstedt Gold' with bright yellow flowers and Hamamelis x intermedia 'Diane' with its rich red spidery flowers.

Daphne is one of the best shrubs you can buy for winter scent. It flowers in January/February and has scented pink or white flowers. This shrub is very hardy and can grow up to 2m in height. They grow very well in borders and also in semi-woodland areas. Place them near to paths where their fragrance can be easily enjoyed. But beware, once planted they do not like to be moved. Daphne prefers a well-drained lime-free soil in a sunny spot, although it will tolerate semi-shade. They have few problems, but watch out for aphids and leaf spot. Two lovely varieties include Daphne bholua which has highly scently pinkish white flowers, and Daphne odora 'Aureomarginata' which has pretty evergreen leaves and fragrant white flowers.

There are some shruby climbers you can buy to add winter colour to deciduous trees. Lonicera standishii 'Budapest' is one such example. Semi-evergreen this shruby honeysuckle has many scented pink-tinged white flowers in mid-winter, followed by red berries. It will grow up to 2m in height and prefers a sheltered position.

Shrubs for spring

Camellias are probably one of the most popular shrubs for early spring flowers. They can be problematic as they need acidic soil, but they can easily be grown in containers in the right compost. Because Camellias are native woodland plants, they grow best in shade or semi-shade. They prefer free-draining conditions with plenty of organic matter and can grow up to 3m in height. Perhaps the main problem for Camellias is frost which can damage flowers. A Good variety is Camellia x williamsii 'Saint Ewe' which has rose-pink flowers from January to April and seems to be quite resistant to frost. Azaleas are beautiful spring flowering shrubs. Growing in sun or shade in well-drained soil, varieties can grow up to 15ft and have flowers ranging from white to deep purple/pink. Azalea 'Adonis' has gorgeous white flowers in May and grows up to 75cm. Azalea 'Aladdin' also flowers in May but has strong red flowers. You just can't ignore the gorgeous yellow flowers of Forsythia in early spring. It can be grown as a stand-alone specimen or as part of a border and is a useful shrub for hedging. It likes moist but well-drained soil but will grow well anywhere. Forsythia x intermedia 'Spectabilis' is a vigorous variety which has deep yellow flowers from mid to late spring and grows up to 300cm in height. Kerria Japonica or Japanese Yellow Rose is another spring flowering shrub with sunny yellow flowers. Varieties can have either single or double flowers. It is suitable for a border or a woodland garden and grows to around 2m in height. Pieris Japonica is an all-year-round shrub, with attractive foliage in summer and slightly fragrant clusters of bell-shaped white, pink or red flowers in early spring. They can be grown in a shrub border but are just as at home in garden planters. 'Mountain Fire' has particularly attractive glossy red leaves.

Summer flowering shrubs

Hydrangea is a deciduous shrub that can suit any type of garden. There are many varieties that are divided up into two main groups. 'Lacecaps' that have flattened flower heads, and 'Hortensias' that have spherical flower heads of large flowers. Flower colours range from pinks to blues. He more acidic the soil, the bluer the flower will be. Hydrangea paniculata 'Limelight' is a spectacular variety, with large conical blooms from July to September which open in a soft shade of pea green and gradually change to cream and finally a delicate soft pink as they mature. It will grow to up to 250cm. Hibiscus syriacus, also called Rose of Sharon, is a deciduous flowering shrub that can reach a height of around 4m. It likes very warm conditions in full sun where it displays an abundance of attractive white, pink, red, lavender, or purple flowers. It is an easy plant to grow as it develops quickly once planted and doesn't mind being moved. Buddleja's are also very easy to grow. They like well drained soil and plenty of sunshine. Their flowers of pink to blue/purple provide a summer spectacle in August when they are covered in butterflies which feed on their nectar. They do require hard pruning in spring to encourage plenty of new growth. 'Pink Delight' has conical spikes of claret buds opening to produce lovely, orange-eyed flowers in a strong pink.

Shrubs for autumn interest

Euonymus can be deciduous or evergreen shrubs or small trees, often with fine autumn colour. The leaves of Euonymus alatus turn a beautiful rosy-crimson in autumn. It is very hardy and grows up to 2.5m in height and spread. Cotinus or Smoke Tree is a true delight. They are large deciduous shrubs or small trees whose leaves produce wonderful autumn colour from yellow to deep reds. Very hardy, they have a bushy habit and can grow up to 8m in height. Berberis can also be large deciduous shrubs or small trees with spiny shoots bearing tiny leaves. Berberis thunbergii has leaves that turn a deep orange/red in autumn followed by red fruit. It has an ultimate height and spread of around 1.5m and is therefore suitable form most gardens.

Jo Poultney is one of two people behind Garden Planters. I have an RHS general certificate in horticulture. Garden Planters source unusual outdoor and indoor planters, and other garden related gifts - whatever your taste, be it traditional, modern or just a bit quirky, we will have something for you. I believe garden planters are an integral part of any garden - they enhance the overall design and say a little something about the person to whom the garden belongs. If you would like to know more about Garden Planters, visit our website at http://www.gardenplantersshop.co.uk/

View the original article here

The Proper Conditions for Planting Bulbs

Many find gardening a relaxing and fulfilling hobby. Growing your own fruits, vegetables, and berries at home offers significant savings over purchasing them at the supermarket while delivering superior flavor and the assurance of an all-natural growth process. Growing flowers is an easy way to add splashes of beautiful color to your environment. Whether food or flower, plants you are in a position to grow in your own garden are typically seeds. However, bulbs operate a little bit differently, and there are some rules of thumb to follow when planting bulbs.

Bulbs need to be planted when they are dormant for the year. Bulbs for plants that bloom in the summer should be planted in autumn or winter. Bulbs that bloom in the autumn are best planted in the spring. When planting bulbs, you should aim to plant them at a depth of about twice their height, about three to four inches apart. Perennials, on the other hand, need to be planted with their roots in the fertile soil, and their tops, or crowns, right at the level of the top soil. They also need more space than other bulbs, so seek to plant them at least six inches apart.

Bulbs tend to flourish in fertile soil that offers ample drainage and a neutral pH of between 5.5 and 7. Most plants do best in soil of this quality and pH. If you test your soil and find it is too acidic, add some lime to lower the acidity. If you find it is too alkaline, you can add sulfur to increase the acidity. All that said, while these are ideal conditions for planting bulbs, bulbs are very hearty, and can still thrive in less ideal conditions. Bulbs even do well in infertile sandy soils, provided ample fertilization is added on a regular basis.

Adequate drainage is necessary to ensure the bulbs do not rot over time. Raised garden beds work well in this regard; adding sand to the soil will also improve drainage significantly. While bulbs will generally do well in most soil without additional fertilization, if you are inclined to fertilize, be very careful not to expose the bulbs themselves to fertilizer, as they will burn. When planting bulbs, keep far from any trees, as tree root systems use most, if not all, of the nutrients in nearby soil for themselves, leaving none for any bulbs trying to bloom nearby.

Bulbs can be successfully grown in pots. Fill the pot half full with the soil of your choosing, lay the bulb flat, and then add soil to the rim of the pot. Do not allow your potted bulbs to overheat by exposing them to too much direct sunlight, and bring them indoors once they begin to flower.

As for maintenance, bulbs rarely require watering. Water when initially planting, and do not water again unless you live in an area that experiences very low rainfall. Prune summer plants when they become affected by frost, and prune evergreens of any dead branches. Once bulbs have successfully flowered, very little further maintenance will be required.

MyReviewsNow offers information regarding planting bulbs. To learn more about planting bulbs, visit our website at MyReviewsNow.net

View the original article here

Growing the Rosemary Plant and Its Uses

The Rosemary plant is essential to any summer garden. Both cooks and apothecaries have used this plant since the beginning of time.

Rosemary is known for it's healing abilities. It is used to strengthen memory, and in the days of old, to wart off the plague. The herb of love, brides have been known to use this herb into their ceremony of love by wearing a wreath of rosemary around their neck. In the olden days the rosemary herb was also burned in chambers of the sick to purify the air.

Fast forwarding to the current time, you will find that rosemary is mostly used for garden hedges. The rosemary plant in bloom produces a beautiful orchid like mauve blue flower in the early summer. With the new variety of rosemary, it can grow up to eight feet tall within just a few years.

Where Best to Grow

Rosemary loves and flourishes in a sunny location. It yearns to be protected from cold winter winds. This plant does not mind being pulled up out of the ground and placed in pots in the winter, to be placed and protected from the cold harsh weather.

What Type of Soil

The rosemary plant prefers to live in a soil that drains well. Planting should be done inside during the spring and moved outdoors to bathe in the sunny summer months, or plant outside during the summer. You can if you choose, plant rosemary in a pot and place under a sunny window.

Propagating

When propagating, it can be done by cuttings or layering. Leave about 2 or 3 feet in between planting. This plant will also be perfectly happy grown indoors under a sunny window.

Harvest Your Bounty

You can harvest rosemary all year-round by gathering the leaf before flowering. I love to use the woody dried stems to throw on a fire or barbecue for its wonderful aroma and to wart off insects.

Preserving Your Bounty

When it comes time for drying out rosemary, dry the leathery needle like sprigs and branches, than strip off the leaves before you store them. For their aroma, crush their succulent leaves just before you want to use them.

The rosemary plant also offers many uses around the house. From cleaning to cooking, this plant is a wonderful addition to any indoor or outdoor garden.

There are several different varieties of rosemary, but they basically all have the same characteristics.

To take a look at more articles just like this one, click here: Herbs List.

View the original article here

Homemade Hydroponics - Don't Talk to Plants, Listen

Getting into homemade hydroponics is a game of pleasing plants, giving them exactly what they need to become the best they can be. Horticulturalists agree, the plants will let you know as soon as something is wrong.

I recently caught up with a good friend over the weekend, we decided on one of our short hikes up into the hills to a place I'd often go to reset. Our way up the river led us into an expanse of paddocks. Groups of cows wafted back and forth across the fields below us in the valley. Something about the area gave me a clear head and I could focus a little better there, plus the dogs would love the walk. It was a place that forced me to think.

I had to think about how these cows would end up being cut up into packable pieces. I had to think about how the farmer there would use the polite excuse of 'dangerous bulls' to get us off the land. I had to wonder why J felt like he had to scuff up a patch of mushroom and leave them lying there, torn and purple. It bugged me, senseless death had always bugged me.

In school I distinctly remember a day in the library when I watched a group of boys squish moths against the window overlooking a group of girls. I couldn't understand it or why it was necessary, this confusion never left me. Call me overly sensitive, but the pointless death of the mushrooms provoked something in me to try and get an answer out of him. I didn't find any meaning in his words that day and I'm sure if I had asked if there was something annoying him personally then I'd have been better received, plus I wouldn't have sounded like some hippy space cadet moaning about how the mushrooms probably didn't appreciate the boot. The short talk with him kicked off a series of thoughts on how plants feel and communicate.

I reserve doubts about the awareness of individual plants and their ability to project feelings and emotions but some research into the awareness of groups of plants makes the concept easy to entertain.

Dr. Suzanne Simard from the University of British Columbia investigates the factors influencing a robust and diverse ecosystem. She understands how different species seemingly communicate with each other through the fungi in the soil, passing nitrogen, carbon and water along subterranean networks of mycelium, the vegetative superhighway of fungi that helps build a strong and resilient forest above.

Many forget that those small outcrops of mushrooms that can be seen populating many grassy pastures are merely the tips of the proverbial icebergs below. Beyond what we see lies some of the largest, oldest and most forgotten organisms on earth.

It has been estimated that a single specimen of fungi in Oregon could be up to 2, 400 years old and covering nearly nine square kilometers, making it the largest organism on earth. It is also known that the genetic and cellular features of fungi and the way it stores and processes food makes their structure closer to that of an animal than a plant, some species capable of laying down tiny lasso traps in the soil to lure in and snare nematodes and other microscopic animals. On top of this is the very probable event that radiation hardened fungi spores may well have traversed deep space to land on earth, a theory called 'panspermia'.

Granted, a plant isn't going to comment on whether your shoes match you coat or whether you should kick your smoking habits and it won't weigh in on whether or not you should tell your parents about your obsessive-compulsive 'starcraft' affliction. As far as I know they don't have the capacity to pass judgment on the colour of your Reeboks, your yellow smoking stained fingers and whether or not they compliment your green lima bean jacket. Yet maybe your peace lily just doesn't feel like giving you its opinion on the finer details of a Protos build order.

Formally, literature supports the conclusion that many plants strategically exchange signals between each other chemically, the lima bean in fact, when under attack from a particular mite will produce a chemical that invites in that mites natural predator, another species of mite. Plants will also respond to and interact significantly differently with different coloured surfaces, frequencies of sound (beyond the human voice) and physical contact. The concept of a plant having 'feelings' does begin to get a little slippery when we challenge the premise itself, namely that our human feelings come as a result of our ability to empathise with one another, an ability somewhat lost on plants.

If our growing scientific understanding of flora-fungi-talk is any indication of the sentience of mushrooms and plants, I am erred to think that we are playing host to a game long conquered by the plants. Our clumsy mouth noises are yet to fend of an assault of lima bean mites. I'm still not sure if plants 'feel', It's probably more an argument from semantics to decide. The one thing that I will be sure of is that when J did decide to kick over those mushrooms, I felt it.

Tom White is a hydroponics designer and open source proponent. He wants to help people get the most out of their homemade hydroponic system and writes about the many dynamics in growing a smart and healthy source of food in the home.

For more brill info on plants visit:
http://www.environmentalgraffiti.com/plants/news-feeling-plants-how-sensitive-flora

http://www.diyhomemadehydroponics.com/

View the original article here

An Introduction To Herb Gardening

Botanists will simply describe herbs as any plant that doesn't have a permanent woody stem. Essentially this means any plant that is not a tree or shrub. Most gardeners would define herbs as plants that we grow to add flavour to our cooking but this definition falls down when you consider rosemary is a shrub and bay leaves come from a tree.

Herbs are amongst the easiest plants to cultivate. A large majority only require good drainage, plenty of sun, and moderate amounts of fertilisers and water. With a good start and a little regular maintenance your herb garden will reward you with a plentiful bounty.

While most herbs will tolerate poor soil and periods of drought they shouldn't have to. Herbs flourish best in good quality soils and with the same regular watering the rest of the garden is afforded. A good planting mix is perhaps the most important element of a successful herb garden. A combination of manure, compost or other fertile organic material that is light on bark and sawdust will produce the best results.

Your herbs don't need to be grown in special herb beds. They will be perfectly happy and bring fragrance and beauty to any part of your garden that is blessed with plenty of sunshine. Using parsley or sage as a border or one of the lower growing lavender's to hide the woody undergrowth of roses can be extremely effective.

When planting directly into the ground, be sure to remove all weeds first as they will compete for nutrients with your freshly planted herbs. I recommend the use of small amounts of dolomite lime to the soil. This will improve your soil by 'sweetening' it. The optimum pH level for herbs is between 6.5 and 7.5. Basic soil testing kits will enable you to check your soils pH and make adjustments to optimize your results.

Herbs can be planted from seed, by purchasing young, partially established plants from nurseries, by root division or even cuttings. Many herbs are well known for there spreading capabilities and you will most likely find a friend who can provide you with stock from established plantings.

Annual herbs (those that last just one season) lend themselves to co-planting in vegetable gardens. Some annual herbs such as Sage have attractive enough foliage to be successfully incorporated into your flower gardens. As long as you meet their needs herbs can be planted just about anywhere in the garden.

Plan you planting to maximise results. Provide enough space for plants to grow to maturity. Plant tall herbs at the back or centre of the garden, lower growing varieties should be planted toward the front. Where space allows plant on mass to provide greater impact. Always consider colours and texture when preparing your planting layout. A little thought will provide a more aesthetically pleasing end result.

Where possible avoid planting perennials (plants lasting more than one season) with annuals. This will help to avoid disturbing the root systems of your perennial plants when the annuals are removed at the end of a season.

Herbs are a wonderful addition to any garden. Beyond providing culinary advantages to your kitchen they can be an attractive border or backdrop to your established garden. Chose carefully and the results will provide you with a functional and beautiful garden. Happy gardening!

Richard Connery invites you to visit his website at http://www.richardconnery.com

Richard Connery Productions provide professional content and writing services to a variety of industries including general articles, travel reviews, blog posts, newsletters, press releases, scripting, product reviews, dining and entertainment reviews, media reviews, web page content and text creation, sales literature and advertising text. To find out more information about Richard's latest novel "Web Games: Hearts & Minds" please visit the website.

Further reading at: http://www.richardconnery.com/blog.php.

Richard is a freelance journalist, author, photographer and writer. For more information or to read more articles by Richard Connery you can visit the blog or the Articles page on the website. Topics include Travel Reviews, Film Reviews, TV Reviews, Online Dating, Crime, Fishing, Gardening, Landscaping and other general subject matter.

(c) Copyright - Richard Connery. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.

View the original article here

Introducing Bokashi Compost To Your Compost Heap

If you've started with your Bokashi Composting System and you're wondering what to do with the waste once it's fermented, this article is for you. Bokashi make a great addition to your compost heap. Read here to find out more.

In case you don't much like the notion of burying Bokashi compost directly in the yard, then another way will be to add it to a compost heap. This might be more straightforward than burying in the garden because you don't need to have to plan where and when to dig holes or trenches to submerge the compost.

Introducing precompost to your compost heap in the garden boosts the rate that the organic matter within a pile breaks down. This is because of the Effective Microorganisms (EM) present in the Bokashi precompost. Utilizing precompost in a compost heap is also a perfect way of incorporating meat, fish, dairy and cooked foodstuffs, ensuring you're able to completely recycle all of your kitchen scraps.

When ever adding Bokashi precompost to a compost heap, you don't need to be overly concerned about draining off all of the spare Bokashi Juice first (however Bokashi Juice can be extremely helpful, so you might want to collect as much as you can to be used some where else). Spare Bokashi Juice shouldn't cause damage to the compost heap.

Given that Bokashi composting technique is anaerobic (it doesn't need air), the Effective Microorganisms (EM) can easily get to work decomposing the organic matter in your compost pile throughout pretty much all levels. They don't just breakdown the matter close to the exterior, or upon you frequently rotating or aerating the pile.

When introducing Bokashi precompost, it's best to mix the fermented waste materials (along with the EM contained within it) throughout the entire pile as much as possible. We recommend digging several holes inside the heap, as deep as is easily manageable, and covering the bottoms with Bokashi compost. Then, stuff the divots with individual layers of compost and organic matter out of your compost heap, mixing while you go.

Introducing Bokashi compost to the compost heap accelerates the rate that the pile breaks down, giving you rich compost before usual. Once Bokashi precompost is added the procedure typically doubles in speed, although this can change depending on temperature and composition of your compost pile. Adding Bokashi compost to a compost heap is a superb way to make sure you incorporate all your food waste to your recycling. A lot of people who have compost piles at home are unable to make use of the compounds locked inside different types of food which are hard to break down. Meat, fish, cooked foods and dairy are normally all sent to landfill. With Bokashi, these nutrients can be utilized and recycled in your home. Bokashi composting is a great means of incorporating these challenging foods into your compost pile.

You can almost certainly tell, we really love Bokashi Composting. We feel it is the best way of recycling kitchen scraps, and is excellent as a kitchen compost bin. Bokashi is swift, affordable and easy. It's an awesome method for you to do your bit for the environement, to help keep waste materials out of landfill, and also to generate good quality garden compost at home.

View the original article here

Reasons That You Should Reconsider When Using Hydroponics

As a gardener, sometimes you have to decide whether or not to take your hobby to a whole new level and get into an exciting field like advanced hydroponics. When you are thinking about this decision, you need to make yourself aware of all the different benefits as well as challenges that you could face both during the initial setup of a hydroponics garden as well as what you will face when the plants start growing.

The first thing that you need to get straight in your mind is that with new things you try, you will probably fail at some points. Plants will probably die! But, as you go along and get better you will find and learn lots of new ways to grow your plants. New ideas and possibly even some shortcuts on getting the best results will be found. It is all about the right mixture of learning everything you can along with not being afraid to try different things and learn from both the good plants you grown and the ones that don't do so well.

Personally, if I was getting into hydroponics as a new gardener, I would start with one plant and master that one first. Different plants require different things like the type of containers they need to be growing in, the plant food they need, amount of light per day that is required. all of these things need to be taken into consideration and starting with too many plants to begin with can become overwhelming.

The use of Hydroponics is often looked at as being a great way for a person to get the needed year round plants that they are seeking to grow on a regular basis. The more that is known, then the better that the end result will often be for the person doing the growing as well as for the person that is just booking to get a little information on this subject for the most part. Taking all of this into consideration, you will be surprised at the amount of positive results that you can experience when taking a little time to study this topic and see for yourself the many points that are associated with this topic.

Personally, if I was getting into hydroponics as a new gardener, I would start with one plant and master that one first. Different plants require different things like the type of containers they need to be growing in, the plant food they need, amount of light per day that is required. all of these things need to be taken into consideration and starting with too many plants to begin with can become overwhelming.

View the original article here

How To Easily Build An Organic Garden

If you are new to gardening, or have been gardening for some time conventionally, you may want to know how to build an organic garden. Most people garden organically because they want to keep as many chemicals out of their body as they can. Eating foods that have been raised organically is an easy way to get a lot of chemicals out of your system.

We have a lot of ground, so to speak, to cover to get you started. In this short space we will talk about compost, soil preparation, grow or buy plants, organic seeds and mulch. It looks like a lot of work, but it really isn't and it doesn't happen all at once, thankfully.

Compost

If you are planning to garden organically you will want to get your compost pile started. There have been several books written about building compost, there is no way we can even cover a small part of what you will want to know. This will be your fertilizer from now on.

A quick tip is to just start putting anything that is, or was, growing into the pile. This can be trimmings from your kitchen vegetables, grass trimmings, leaves, newspaper, cardboard boxes, just about anything. Just do not put any meat scraps into your compost pile, for several reasons.

Prepare your soil

If you are just starting, it is best to kill all the weeds and grass from the plot planned for your garden. You can do this by smothering them out with newspaper, leaves, cardboard, old carpet, anything that will not let any light hit the ground.

Till the soil with a shovel, fork or a rototiller, do not work the soil until it has dried enough to not make clods.

Should you buy or grow plants

If you want to stay strictly organic I recommend you grow your own plants. Plants raised by a nursery have chemical fertilizers poured on them. So, it is best to buy your seed and start your own.

Organic seed

Since we are talking about seed, should you only use organic seed? You can find most varieties of garden seeds, which are organic, from seed companies that carry them. To stay totally organic you will want to start with organic seed.

Mulch

One of the best tricks to growing organically is to use a lot of mulch. Again, you can use just about anything that will decompose as mulch. Just watch out for things that have chemicals in them.

Mulching will make your job a lot easier, as you will have a lot less weeds to pull and you will save water.

You should now know how to build an organic garden. Just follow the steps. Get started composting, prepare the soil, grow or buy your plants, use organic seed and mulch the garden.

Finding gardening tips is easy, just click here for a free organic gardening newsletter. To go to the website use this link http://solutionsfororganicgardening.com/.

View the original article here

Plants To Use In A Xeriscape

Xeriscape Plants

There are many articles out there discussing Xeriscaping in general terms, but in this piece I would like to be more specific about choices for Xeriscape plants in Texas, and even more specifically, Central Texas. For someone who is thinking about changing to a more water conserving landscape it is sometimes frustrating to read information on the subject but still be none the wiser as to what the new garden will look like. It's all good and well saying that there will be blooms and textures, but what exactly are we looking at? In this article I will pick some of my favorites and discuss why I would choose them, but be mindful that this is not a comprehensive list.

Trees

Just a quick word about trees because I'm always being asked what is a good choice for Central Texas. Of course we have the trusty Live Oak (Quercus virginiana) which does very well despite its susceptibility to oak wilt. If you are in an area that is diseased or might become diseased a better choice would be the Monterey Oak (Quercus polymorpha) which is resistant. Both are semi-evergreen, dropping leaves in the spring as new growth emerges. Prune to shape or raise the canopy in the winter - note that the insect that carries oak wilt is inactive during the hottest and coldest parts of the year so it is safest to prune at those times, but always make sure to paint the cuts you make as an extra precaution against infection. A smaller tree is the Lacey Oak (Quercus laceyi), also oak wilt resistant, with a bluish-green foliage and interesting bark texture. It is a favorite of ours and does well in shallow limestone soil which is prevalent on the Edwards Plateau.

Small Trees

Although the Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is not native to Texas it is still a great choice for a sunny landscape. The delicate blond trunk system can be a work of art in itself - redolent of the Texas Madrone (Arbutus xalapensis)- and the large bunches of summer blooms come in a variety of colors including white pink and, our favorite, red.

The Cherry Laurel (Prunus caroliniana) is an evergreen with dark green foliage and wonderful dusky bark. It can be used as an ornamental or a screen and is relatively fast-growing reaching 15-20 feet in height. But it likes a deeper, well-drained soil, so be careful not to plant it on a rock! It may become chlorotic.

The evergreen Texas Mountain Laurel (Sophora secundiflora) is slow growing and so tend to be more expensive at the nursery, but they make up for it with a delicate, grainy trunk system and fragrant purple flowers. An excellent choice. Not only is it very drought tolerant, but also deer resistant - although we all know that if a deer gets hungry enough it will eat anything!

Shrubs

When we think of Xeriscape plants we think of shrubs and in Central Texas, the hardier the better! When it hasn't rained in two months and it's 110 degrees in the shade you need a plant that will smile and say "is that all you got?"

Lantanas. The Texas Lantana (L. urticoides) just needs to be cut back in the winter to keep under control. Otherwise leave this plant alone to do its thing and it will supply year after year of yellow and orange blooms throughout the late spring and summer. I've seen it growing as a weed in places, but if left unattended for years it can get thorny. Trailing Lantana (L. montevidensis) is more of a ground cover and like the Texas variety needs to be cut back in the winter to get rid of freeze-damaged parts and to keep under control. It supplies white or purple blooms throughout the warmer months, and has been known to bloom all winter if it is mild enough. A wonderful choice for the lower part of a flower bed.

Salvias are from the sage family of plants and are a great choice for color in a landscape. We use Autumn Sage (Salvia greggii) a lot. It will bloom in white, red and coral and the hummingbirds love it. You can intersperse plantings or use it in groupings to form borders or hedges. It is a woody plant and does tend to get 'leggy', so be sure to prune it back after it blooms. We go through and snap the branches as needed, normally taking a third of the growth away to keep it nice and compact. Mexican Bush Sage (S. leucantha) - also known as "Indigo Spires" - is another favorite that can be planted toward the back of the bed. Silver-green lances will shoot up 4-5 feet topped with purple and white flowers. It is loved by butterflies and just needs to be cut down to the ground in the winter. It also needs very little water and we've never seen a deer eat one of these.

If you have the room why not go for an Agave? They can be stunning. The Century Agave (Agave Americana) can get 6 feet across and 10 feet high without the bloom. Watch out for the leaf tips as they will puncture you. The bloom itself can be 20-30 feet tall with a branching series of white flowers that could be a tree in its own right, but after blooming it dies. Smaller agaves to consider would be Parry's Agave (A. parryi) and Queen Victoria's Agave (A. Victoriae-reginae). These both only spread about one and a half feet and may be killed by severe frosts in the teens.

Daisy-types. A splash of color in the spring and summer. Some of the best are: Blackfoot Daisy (Melampodium leucanthum) which will re-seed; Copper Canyon Daisy (Tagetes lemmonii) which has a very pungent aroma, is very deer resistant, and is native to Mexico; Coreopsis (C. lanceolata) which everybody recognizes, including the butterflies; and Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida) which always reminds me of the Quiet Man. All have those wonderful circular petal blooms that are very hardy, require very little water and attract butterflies and bees like they were being paid! For an autumnal bloom consider Fall Aster (A. oblongifolium) a profuse purple and lavender flowering plant, also a source of nectar.

Agarita (Berberis trifoliate) is an excellent Xeriscape plant choice for the shadier part of the garden. It has bluish-green holly-like foliage and red berries in the winter. But beware the spiky leaves. Plant this one toward the middle of the bed to keep it away from pedestrians... unless you don't like them. It is also a great as a nesting place for birds. Consider also Mahonia Leatherleaf (M. trifoliate). Very similar, but as the name suggests, a different leaf texture.

Even though Esperanza (Tacoma stans) or "Yellow Bells" is deciduous and most times freezes back it still delivers robust woody growth and a profusion of yellow flowers from spring through fall. It can get up to 6 feet across and 8 tall so give it plenty of room. This is one of my personal favorites and is native to Texas.

Verbena (Verbena spp.) is more a groundcover and very hardy. It can be covered in gorgeous lavender flowers from spring until frost and the butterflies love it. It can be quite short-lived but it does re-seed, but this can lead to patchy growth over the years.

Grasses. These die back in the winter, but they don't look nasty like most other plant types would. They look stately and make a sweet sound when the wind rustles them. At the end of the winter trim them back and they will sprout forth in the spring. Purple Fountain Grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) is not a Texas Native but does well. The burgundy foliage and plumes are eye catching and it is great choice for foundation and accent. Plant in multiples for better effect. The native Wiregrass (Nassella tenuissima) is smaller and more delicate, but no less desirable. It has an elegant, sweeping form, cream colored seed heads and is drought tolerant. The wispy pink seed heads of Gulf Muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaries) are quite ethereal and add a dash of drama in the fall. It can get a couple of feet wide and the same height, is drought tolerant and looks fantastic!

Herbs. Ah, poor herbs, always the last to be mentioned, but we should never forget them. The vast majority are non-native, but they soak up the sun, require little water and, in the case of Lavender, actually dislike good soil! Consider the fact that they make wonderful companion plants. If you have any species in the garden that suffer from disease or bugs, planting Rosemary, Sage, Thyme or Oregano close by will discourage them. An added bonus, of course, is that with a couple of leaves from the Laurus nobilis your vegetable stew will taste fantastic!

Finally, any article about Xeriscape plants wouldn't complete without a quick mention of those you should avoid! Trees like the Mulberry, Chinese Tallow and Chinaberry have shallow, destructive root systems, and in the case of Chinaberrys they fall on to your truck and dent the roof - at least that's what happened to me. Shrubs like Photinia, Ligustrum, Nandina, Elaeagnus and Privet are water-hungry and have no place in the Xeriscape landscape. And for Heaven's sake, never plant any Bamboo!

Steve Gilder a landscape professional with over 20 years experience. He currently lives in Austin, Texas and still has a dent in the roof of his truck!

View the original article here

Looking After the Plants in Your Garden

Keeping a garden isn't as easy as laying out a plan, planting a few plants and sitting back to watch them grow. Those plants will need a bit of looking after. This may seem an obvious statement to those of us whose enjoyment centres around working in our gardens more than sitting in them, but it is worth mentioning a few essential jobs you will need to make time for in looking after the plants in your garden.

Watering

Between the months of October and April most plants receive all the water they need from rainfall and moisture retained in the soil. However, there are a few times and circumstances when you will need to water garden plants. The most obvious time is in summer when rainfall can be scarce and the soil can dry out. Pay particular attention to young plants which quickly wilt in dry conditions, container plants and also those plants you want to produce crops for you such as soft fruit and potatoes.

The best times to water plants are early in the morning before the sun has properly risen or at dusk when the air is cooler. Never water a plant that has wilted in the sun. Move it into the shade to allow it to cool down before watering. If you can't move it, then wait until the evening. There are also certain things you can do to make sure you use water efficiently and economically. Having a water butt installed is always a good idea. When watering your plants, water below the foliage so that all the water goes into the soil where it is needed most. If you use a hose, fit a trigger so that you can stop the water between plants. Make sure you use a steady spray of water rather than a jet which can damage plants and expose roots. It is best to water your plants well once a week than sparingly once a day. However, this rule doesn't apply to container plants which dry out more quickly than those planted in the ground. A good tip for container plants is to sink a plastic bottle with no bottom into the soil and fill it with water which will gradually seep down to the root system.

Feeding

You can save yourself a lot of time as far as feeding plants is concerned if you regularly fertilise your soil with plenty of well rotted manure, organic fertiliser such as blood, fish and bone, or mushroom compost. Other good organic fertilisers include seaweed, your own garden compost, chicken manure pellets, and bonemeal. As a general rule it is better to feed the soil around a plant than apply it directly to the base of a plant, as the plant can then take up the food from the surrounding area as and when it needs it.

Some plants will need a more specialist type of feed. A good example is tomatoes. They will need regular feeding with liquid tomato feed in order to produce a healthy crop. Most tomato feeds are based on properties derived from comfrey. You can make your own comfrey feed by steeping the leaves in water for a few weeks and then straining the mixture before use.

Pruning

As a general rule, plants do not need pruning in order to stay healthy. After all they do not get pruned in the wild. We prune plants to keep them tidy and to stop them growing out of hand. However, there are a few general rules you need to follow when pruning garden plants. If you don't do much else, it is always a good idea to prune out dead wood or stems which can attract disease if left. It is also crucial that you know how to prune properly. You need a good sharp pair of secateurs. When pruning, cut back to just above a healthy outward facing shoot or bud. Make sure your cut is clean and at a slight angle away from a bud or shoot.

Another important consideration is when to prune. This will depend on how each plant grows. For plants that flower on stems that grow in the previous year, prune after flowering to encourage more growth ready to flower on the next year. For plants that flower on new growth, prune them in late winter to stimulate growth for flowers later on in the year.

Deadheading

There are a number of reasons why you might want to remove dead flowerheads from plants in your garden. It stops the garden from looking tired and shabby. Deadheading encourages the plant to produce more flowers, this is especially the case for plants such as pansies and violas and repeat flowering roses. Deadheading can also prevent those plants which self-seed all over the garden from seeding. It is a good idea to leave seed heads on plants after mid-autumn as they will provide much appreciated food for birds and other wildlife during the winter months.

Mulching

Adding a layer of material to the soil surface around your plants is important for conserving moisture and keeping weeds down. You can either use organic mulches such as leaf mould or manure that also add valuable nutrients to the soil, or you can use other types of mulch such as plastic sheeting which is best used on large areas such as a vegetable patch.

Staking and supporting plants

There are some plants which will need support to keep them upright. In particular, young trees l need staking to prevent them blowing over in the wind. Many herbaceous plants will flop over without some support. Bought or home-made plant supports or hoops will keep plants such as dahlias, delphiniums, poppies and peonies from collapsing in your borders.

Protecting plants

Most gardens will have a few tender plants that will need some protection from the worst of the winter weather. These plants are best grown in garden planters so that they can be moved into the greenhouse to overwinter. If you don't have a greenhouse you can wrap container plants in special fleece which will provide some protection against frost.

Jo Poultney is one of two people behind Garden Planters. I have an RHS general certificate in horticulture. Garden Planters source unusual outdoor and indoor planters, and other garden related gifts - whatever your taste, be it traditional, modern or just a bit quirky, we will have something for you. I believe garden planters are an integral part of any garden - they enhance the overall design and say a little something about the person to whom the garden belongs. If you would like to know more about Garden Planters, visit our website at http://www.gardenplantersshop.co.uk/

View the original article here

Dog-Proofing a Garden

There are many good reasons to let a pet dog run free outdoors, as long as it is safe. It's good for the health of the dog, and can help to prevent them making a real mess inside your home. Making a garden safe for a dog to play in can be more difficult than initially expected. Dogs are curious creatures that will try to find their way out of a garden, and could also ruin the hard work of avid gardeners. So how can you create a dog-friendly garden?

Plants
Dogs can ruin plants, but it's hard to predict which ones will appeal to them, and which they will choose to ignore. There are some simple steps you can take to protect your plants, including erecting small fences around particularly important and vulnerable plants. Although most dogs are capable of jumping small fences if they really want to, they will tend not to. Other preventative measures you could take including buying larger plants which are less susceptible to canine attack.

Pathways
Dogs like running around in open spaces, which is good for them, but you might want to consider adding pathways to a garden, as they will often be used by dogs, and might save the flower bed being dug up. Solid stones are better than gravel as they are less noisy. You could also consider planting the plants closer to each other, so the dog does not see a route through a flower bed.

Shade
It's really important that the garden can provide the dog some shade in hot, dry months, especially if they are going to be spending large amounts of time outside in the garden. A cool, shaded area should be provided for them to relax and cool down, out of the glare of the hot summer sun.

Poisonous Plants, Pesticides, Insecticides and Herbicides
If your dog does have a penchant for munching on plants, then you might want to find out which, if any of your plants might be poisonous to dogs. Believe it or not, daffodils, foxgloves and even rhubarb can be poisonous to dogs, so it's well-worth doing some research. Herbicides and pesticides won't be poisonous, but they might upset a dog's stomach. Consider less chemical-based solutions to reducing pests and weeds. If you do need to use chemicals on a particular part of your garden, then try to keep the dog well away!

Grass
Decking, patios and gravel are great surfaces for gardens, but dogs love to run, and they do that best on a grass lawn. If you let the dog out in the garden, try to make some room for him or her to run. If they have a way of exercising they are less likely to develop an interest in archaeology. Sometimes dogs will start to eat grass, and there are several contrasting explanations for this behaviour. Some say it is for additional fibre, while some say it is just from curiosity and stupidity. If you want your dog to stop eating your grass lawn, then you could consider installing an artificial grass lawn, which requires minimal maintenance and provides a luscious green lawn twelve months per year.

Adam Cain writes on a number of subjects including artificial grass and artificial grass lawns.

View the original article here

An Introduction to Viticulture

Growing grapes is an art form. Many people who start their own vineyard do so not because of the wine or other uses the grapes will provide, but because they love the peace that grapevines bring to a landscape and to the gardener's soul. Much like Japanese Bonsai Trees, grapevines take a lot of care in order to grow into the most healthy and productive plant you can make them to be.

There is a sort of Zen about grapevines which is difficult to describe to someone who hasn't really experienced it for themselves. Getting out there and getting your hands dirty with the process gives you time to think and grow. You get to care for something you never thought you'd care about.

So what does growing grapes entail?

Good Food

Grapes are one of the most versatile fruits in the world. Ironically, they are made mostly of water. Yet there are over 100 difference species of the plant. Not only that but you can mix and match to create entirely new types of grapes by grafting two grapevines together. So there are literally thousands of different combinations.

People take the grapes that grow and make all kinds of foods including things like raisins, food coloring, candy, and more. But chief among the products of grapes is wine. Wine is one of the largest and oldest fine food industries to ever exist. And because of its classy nature, Vineyards have gained an air of aristocracy which has aided them in becoming quite wealthy over the years.

Good Friends

Growing grapes yourself brings other benefits. For instance, once you've grown the grapes you need people to share the fruits of your labor with! Of course you can just dump them at the nearest farmer's market and call it a day, but I'd recommend making your own wine with the grapes you grow.

Making your own wine gives you the opportunity to share the joy of your labor with friends and family. You too can look back at a bottle of fine white or red wine and say "that was a good year."

Good Fun

Finally, growing grapes is good clean fun. It is a demanding task, but it is a highly rewarding one. Not only do you get to see the grapes grow which you've so carefully tended to health. But you'll see your labor pay off year after year after year.

Being out in the field with a pair of scissors, or a spray bottle is a fantastic way to simply enjoy nature and the peace it provides.

Some thoughts on getting started.

Starting your own vineyard, no matter if it is just a small patch in your back yard or if it is a massive production at a vineyard you've purchased and setup, comes with some work.

You're going to have to till the soil and make sure that your vines can allow their roots to grow deep and strong. You'll need to build solid trellises, so that the vines can grow and carry their massive harvests without crushing the structure. You'll need to select a variety of grape and figure out what you're going to do with it when you're done.

But chief of all of these things is you're going to need to build some patience. Growing your first harvest can be as much as three years away from when you plant your vine. You'll need to do a lot of work between now and then, but don't worry, when you see those grapes budding on the vine you'll know why you did it!

The excitement awaits! Get growing!

Michael Owens is a viticulture enthusiast who appreciates things that take time to grow, such as grapevines and bonsai trees. His website, the Grape Growing Garden helps people get into the art of viticulture. He writes about growing grapes and everything that entails such as how to buy grape vines online, how to choose the right grape variety, and how to get started growing your first harvest.

View the original article here

Buying A New Greenhouse

Buying a greenhouse needs a little thought before you rush out and buy one!

The most important things are cost and size. They go hand in hand: if you want a huge greenhouse then you'll have to pay a lot of money. If you want a very stylish model you'll probably have to fork out a few quid too!

Measure the available space first. Decide where is best to have it in your garden. You want as much sunlight as possible to enable plants to grow well. A greenhouse in the shade is mostly pointless.

Once you've decided where you'll put it, think about how big you'll need it to be, how big you want it to be, and how big you can afford it to be. Getting this bit right is important for your wallet - but also so you don't get fed up with a teeny tiny greenhouse that you can't get enough plants in. If you're a keen gardener then the chances are that you want a big greenhouse. You can use one all year for growing plants in but most people tend to use them for tomatoes.

Think about the base next. Do you want one on soil, or on a solid base? Add in the cost of making the base, or buying a pre-made base for it to sit on. You might need some help doing paving and of course this is another expense unless you have willing family or friends to help you.

There are different types of greenhouse. Lean-to types are a good choice if you only have space against another building. Stand alone are good if you have a big open garden and can pick the best spot.

Avoid putting your greenhouse somewhere it will get shaded. Watch out for shadows from the house, and trees and neighbour's properties. Think about where the sunniest part of your garden is. Sometimes it's best to sacrifice a bit of sun first thing in the morning to site it in a place where it'll get the sun all afternoon and evening.

Plastic or glass is an important choice. Whilst glass isn't that difficult to replace, if you have kids you might want the security of knowing they won't be able to break the panes in the greenhouse. It's also good if your greenhouse might end up being the subject of unwanted attention. For some reason the sound of smashing glass is attractive to some types of people.

A large greenhouse will cost more to heat. There are ways round this though, for instance by fitting an internal divider you can create a smaller space to heat, and using insulation like bubble wrap on windows you can make the heat stay in better. The additional growing space you get will mean you will be able to start off more plants indoors than in a smaller one, and that you will be able to grow more summer plants like tomatoes, cucumbers, or maybe even a vine!

Wood or aluminium is as much about style as anything else. They will both last a decent amount of time, although wood might need treating or re-painting after a couple of years.

If it's visible from the house bear this in mind and perhaps go for one of the more stylish models of greenhouse available. There are some very decorative models.

Some companies offer services to erect your new greenhouse for you. If you're not confident at DIY, or will be struggling on your own, it can be a good investment. The greenhouse will be put up professionally and much quicker than you could have done. Again it will be another expense which you will have to weigh up the pros and cons of.

Once you have decided on the greenhouse of your dreams and come to terms with the greenhouse of your reality you will need to get it ordered!

If you love gardening then Garden and Gardener has lots of great information about gardening available

View the original article here

Develop a Good Eye When Shaping Your Bonsai

Pruning a Japanese maple bonsai tree may look like a standard cut and wire, but bonsai keeping is close to an inspired art form. The sight of those miniaturized trees in beautiful pots can be breathtaking especially if the bonsai has been shaped delicately and carefully.

Many bonsai-keeping experts have developed a good eye and a flawlessly aesthetic approach in shaping bonsai. The art of shaping and training the small tree has become almost second nature to them.

If you are new to bonsai-keeping and you want to learn how the experts shape their bonsai trees, then here are some useful tips that will give you an idea on how bonsai masters prune and shape their little trees. Perhaps, you can apply them when you shape the bonsai that you are keeping in your yard. Knowing the pruning basics is not enough; a certain level of artistry is needed to achieve that showroom bonsai look. It takes time and experience to develop a good eye for bonsai training and shaping.

First, take your clues from nature. There are classic shapes achieved by certain trees whenever they grow in extreme conditions that you can duplicate on a potted tree. For example, a tree which clings to a rocky face of a cliff or a stunted plant which grows on a nearly dry and rocky terrain may be particularly inspiring for you. You can recreate and miniaturize the natural look of stunted trees on a pot. It is also helpful to know that experts prefer to observe trees without any foliage in order for them to see the true structure and form of the tree.

Next, research and take a look at pictures of styled bonsai trees. You cannot learn it on your own overnight. Be patient and keep mental notes. The slanting and cascade or formal upright styles all depend on the type of bonsai tree that you are cultivating. There are classic structures and lines specific for certain varieties of trees. You know exactly what type of tree you have, so go ahead and adapt the styling and training for that particular tree.

Lastly, have fun. Take a nature walk and see the trees and the foliage. In time, the perfect bonsai structure will come to you. Use the pruning tools and tweezers, the training wires and the best pot, and ultimately, your miniature tree will grow to that form that you visualized and planned.

For a much more detailed and updated information about maple bonsai cultivation, visit Maple Bonsai.

View the original article here

Should You Use Organic Garden Seed?

Sometimes organic gardeners question if they should use only organic garden seed. That is a question with a simple, but complicated, answer.

We will try to look into the ins and outs of going totally organic in your garden. We want to look at, do you really need to use only organic seed, finding organic garden seed and saving your own.

If you want to grow organic vegetables to keep the chemicals in grocery store foods out of your body, is it necessary to grow only organic seeds? The short answer is yes. But, not everyone growing organic is concerned about being totally chemical free. They just want to have great tasting food.

There is little chemical residue in a seed, but there is residue. If you are trying to be as chemical free as possible then you will want to seek out a seed company that grows chemically free.

Many companies are starting to carry organically grown seeds as they are getting very popular today.

Check with catalog companies for the ones that are organic. Some companies only grow organic, like Seeds Of Change. Other companies will have mostly conventionally grown, but will offer some of their line as organic.

You will need to read the catalog description to be sure it is what you want. Most seed catalogs plainly mark which ones are organic. A big plus with the organic seeds is that a lot of them are heirloom plants. Heirloom plants usually have more flavor than newer varieties.

One of the best ways to know for sure what you plant in your garden is chemical free is to save your own seed. This can be a fun hobby by itself.

Garden plants require different methods of preserving the their harvest. You will have to look up each plant to be sure how to get good viable seed. But, most are straight forward and just common sense.

You can start with the easy plants to preserve and move on to the more difficult ones as you gain experience. There are some really good books that explain how to grow plants for seeds and how to harvest and preserve them.

Organic gardening is a fun way to get delicious healthy food. Using organic garden seed is necessary to be totally chemical free. Check your catalogs for certified organic seed and try saving your own seed for fun and the peace of mind that what you have to eat is truly chemical free.

More tips on organic gardening can be found at this link, click here. The web site address is http://solutionsfororganicgardening.com/.

View the original article here

A Great Lawn And Garden Invention - The Weed Eater

I was born in 1966, and lived in Atlanta Georgia. If you know anything about the greater Atlanta area, then you knew we are known for our spring time emergence of flowers, flowering trees and lush green lawns.

Each weekend, I would go visit on of my pairs of grandparents and help them tend to their lawn duties. I vividly remember raking the leaves in the fall, and spring time was full of pruning and trimming of the bushes and lawns. One of the primary tasks that was entrusted to me; or perhaps delegated to me for the horrendous labor involved, was the trimming of the edges of the lawn.

In those days of course, there were no fancy string trimmers; only a pair of modified scissors that required the operator to be on hands and knees. Crawling and inching one painful inch at a time, with repetitive snipping of the scissors, hours would pass before I had made one complete revolution around the perimeter of the lawn. As I remember, the most painful part of this process was the burning and cramping my little hands felt after approximately one million snips of the scissors. I vividly remember thinking, 'surely there must be a better way'?

Around this time, some great person was toying around that the very solution that I was looking for. His name was George C. Ballas, Sr. The inventor of the first string trimmer, which at the time was known by brand name of the 'weed eater'.

It was at a trip to a car wash that George noticed the bristles of an automatic car wash. Through a bit of trial and error, he eventually had his first prototype developed and was well on his way of transforming the way the world trims the edges of their lawns. Eventually his company was bought by Emerson Electric and merged with Poulan to create a new improved model, which was later purchased by Electrolux.

Of course the first versions were significantly heaver and were somewhat smoky; even so, they were well embraced by the general public. Newer versions became lighter, and ran better. Over the course of the evolution, weed eaters are now manufactured in gas, electric, and battery operated models. The original brand name of weed eater, has now more effectively become known as lawn trimmer.

Heavier models with more horsepower were soon created for tougher areas that required more than the weed eater could provide. These newer models became known as the brush cutter; and this model is sold with handle bars for greater control, and the cutting device is that of a cutter blade, rather than monofilament line as the conventions weed eater required. This model is far tougher, yet is also far heavier.

Personally I am very thankful to George Ballas for his incredible contribution to my own life by inventing the first generation weed eater.

View the original article here

Garden Water Features

Garden water features are of course water features for your garden and this means things like waterfalls and fountains that you can use to add atmosphere and scenery to your garden relatively easily. When you add a water feature to your garden there are many types to choose from, from natural looking rock pools with built in fountains that will blend into the fauna and greenery in your garden, to more modern looking arrangements using stone balls and other features.

There are many benefits of water features and if you choose a good one for your property then you will find that this not only gives you a great feature to look at, but that it also transforms the feeling of your garden environment in other ways too. Here we will look at just a few of the benefits of garden features and what they can offer you.

Appearance: A garden water feature is a great looking thing to have in your home and one that will create a very natural feel in your garden. Often these will be made to blend into the appearance of your garden with natural looking rocks and the appearance of a small waterfall or rock pool. This can make a great feature for a garden and can take center stage, or it can be a smaller side attraction in the corner that shows attention to detail in your garden layout - something to find for those who are looking for it.

Sound: A garden waterfall doesn't just look good though it also sounds great, and it's highly relaxing to listen to the trickling noise it makes which can be likened to a babbling brook in a river giving your home the feeling of a natural setting. If you've ever listened to one of those relaxation CDs then you'll not that they tend to feature trickling streams quite highly. This then is a sign of just how relaxing and calming a stream really is and how we are almost 'programmed' to enjoy that sound. If you enjoy sitting outside and listening to the birds for a moment's respite from the busy pace of modern living, then this is the perfect way to get to enjoy that even more.

Light: Another great thing about a fountain is the way it refracts and reflects light. Here the sunlight will sometimes catch on the glass and reflect off of it, while at other times you will get to enjoy the lighting included in it. Usually this will be in the form of LEDs lighting the water from underneath and this will tend to be an electric blue or a neon green. In the evening then this serene lighting will be refracted and will dance around the garden in a similar way to the way in which a flame dances in the light - it can be completely hypnotic.

Wildlife: A garden water feature will also draw to your garden a host of wildlife and particularly birds that can bath in the water or drink it, and this is great for those who enjoy watching wildlife from their gardens.

We had a garden water feature installed as a centerpiece in our small courtyard/backyard area. It gives the space more life and we got it from this water features Melbourne supplier, who took care of everything.

View the original article here

Picking The Right Variety Of Grapevine For Your Garden

Grapes come in all different kinds of shapes and sizes..... Well they come in different sizes at least (if you find a square grape, let me know!) But the biggest difference between grapes is the flavor. Some grapes are perfect for wine.... Others, are perfect for eating. Still others are used in the production of other things like dyes, etc.

So how do you select the variety that is right for you? With hundreds of choices available it is very easy to get McDonalds syndrome, where you have a whole menu full of choices but you can't make up your mind! Having choices is great, having too many choices is not so great.

Lets take a look at some factors which may help you narrow the list of grape varieties.

Desired End Result

The end result is a huge deal in picking the right type of grapevine. If you're intending on making wine or table grapes you'll find that this narrows the list dramatically.

Grapes are separated into three main categories. You have Red Wine Grapes, White Wine Grapes, and Table Grapes (What you buy at the store to eat).

If you already know what you intend to produce then this will be an easy choice, if not then we should probably consider some factors that go into the different categories. Red and White Wine grapes are relatively similar choices. You're going to be making wine. If you're just getting started, or if you're planning to make some money from your grapes, then wine producing grapes are probably the best choice starting out. Table grapes are much more difficult to turn a profit as you need to produce a TON of grapes in order to be competitive.

If you're just growing grapes for the joy of a hobby, then anything is probably a good choice, but you will need to make some decisions based on the following criteria.

Location

Location plays a massive role in the selection process of grapes. Grapes are a very sensitive plant, but some deal better than others in more harsh environments. You'll need to weigh some environmental factors into choosing your variety of grapevine.

Firstly, you need to look into temperature. Some grapes do well in colder temperatures than others, and the same goes for warmer temperatures. Also, certain grape diseases fair better in temperatures that average around 80 degrees.

Disease is also a factor. Some grapes are more weak to diseases that are local to your area. Sometimes grape diseases can be highly localized so speak to the local grape growing association to find out what diseases are in your area and then pick a variety that has a natural resistance to those diseases.

The most important factor of all, however, is moisture level in the soil and in the air. Some areas are far more moist (which most grapes love). However, if you're in a dryer locale, then it might be prudent to pick a type of grape that is more resilient to less moisture in the soil.

Skill Level

Finally, skill level plays a part in picking the right grape to grow. The most basic distinction is that you can combine grape plants through grafting. If you're a beginner, this is probably off the menu (as you may have guessed!). However, even among single species of grapes there are some which have a reputation of being easier to grow. If you're just getting started, don't make things hard on yourself and pick a plant that is easy to grow.

You will want to be able to revel in your victory of growing some grapes rather than succumbing to vines which refuse to cooperate.

The last bit of advice I can give you is to speak to your local association. There is almost a state or local association (depending on where you live) which can give you valuable advice about what grapes work best in your area. Speaking with the association will give you valuable advice about getting started with your grape growing experiences.

Michael Owens writes about grapes and the art of Growing Grapes. Read more of Michael's on topics like Grape Varieties, and Grape Trellising.

View the original article here

Growing Several Herbs in One Container

Growing herbs in pots versus growing herbs outside in the ground grants you flexibility. You cannot however just throw all your favorite herbs into one pot. You need to consider if they will play together well.

You can put your pot of herbs out doors when the temperatures reach an ideal climate and bring them indoors when the winter months come around. You can move them into a partial shady spot when the harsh sun comes beating down during the summer months.

It is possible to grow several herbs in one container. However, you will want to choose your herbs wisely. In this case, you can think of herbs as like people. Not all people get a long. And if you were to force a group of people that do not get along to live in the same house, there would be problems.

Some herbs do not get along with other herbs. For example, some herbs are aggressive and will take over the whole pot. This would not sit well with some herbs.

Since herbs that are planted in one pot will be sharing the same house, it is important that you choose herbs that play well together.

What you should consider when choosing herbs that will share the same soil.

You first want to get an idea of the size the plant will be when it matures. Do their roots run deep or shallow? Do they grow far and wide, or short versus tall? Are they known to be tyrannical?

Do they need full sun, shade or partial shade?

What are their growing conditions? Do they like it hot or cold? Do they like it dry or moist?

You might even consider their colors. Herbs, along with being useful, can also add an atmosphere to any yard or window sill.

Consider growing your herbs in a way that will bloom in sequence. Some bloom early, mid-season or later in the season then others.

Another idea to consider is a theme pot. If you love pizza, consider growing a pot of pizza herbs. If you are considering keeping your herbs in a pot in the house by a sunny window, you might want a pot of herbs that fill the room with wonderful aromas.

Container Combinations Examples:
Likes the Shade: Sweet woodruff and VioletsItalian Planter: Greek oregano, Italian paprika, and PeppersColor: Golden: Marigold, St, Johns wort, Golden lemon thyme, Dill, curly leaf Parsley, Sage, and golden Icteina, Calendula, MeadowsweetColor: White: Chamomile, Valerian, Meadowsweet, Yarrow, scented Geraniums with lamb's ears, WoodruffColor: Purple: Anise hyssop, Lavender, Basil, chives, Tricolor sage, Borage, and ThymeColor: Silver: Lavender with silver thyme, Silver Mound Artemisia, Wormwood, Russian SageColor: Blue: Bronze Fennel, Catnip

To take a look at more articles just like this one, click here: Herbs List

View the original article here

An Introduction to Growing Your Own Herbs

Before you take on the delightful joys of growing your own herbs, you should get to know how each and every one of them grows. Not all herbs grow the same. Some grow fast, while others grow slow. Some have a shorter life span, while others can live for many years. Some love the warm weather months, while others prefer cold weather.

You will be able to choose from annual, biennial, and perennial herbs. Some of the perennial herbs will live anywhere from 1 to 3 years or more. With the herbs that are annual and biennial you have a bit of flexibility while the long living perennials can offer security and durability.

When choosing the herbs that you want to grow, you will be most successful if you consider their native habitat. While some herbs can weather cold northern climates, other herbs can handle sultry summer heat found in the southern climates. You will want to consider your area's average temperatures and choose herbs best suited to your area's weather.

That being said, you can still choose herbs that are to tender to grow in your area by finding tips on how to stretch out the plants heat tolerance and cold tolerance. You can have a back up plan in case you lose any of your herbs to harsh weather by being aware of a place close to you where you can get a replacement, just in-case.

The reason it can be possible to grow herbs even if it is not recommended for your area is because it is not really truly known what the hardiness limits for every herb is. This is also true because soil and other local conditions are capable of changing a plants survival rate. There isn't a standard definition for temperatures at which an herb becomes hardy. This is why sometimes you will see a discrepancy in different catalogs.

You can also expect different climates within city limits as apposed to out in the open country areas and can expect different results even within the same zone. There are other factors as well. If you have a garden planted in a low area will remain much colder than a garden planted up higher on a hill. This is because cold air is much denser and can drain downwards. If for example, my house is sort of down in a hole...sitting below the rest of my neighbors and it stays much cooler.

To take a look at more articles just like this one, click here: Herbs List

View the original article here

Which Flowers To Plant For All Season Blooming

Having a garden set up with plants and flowers for all season blooming is the dream of many gardeners. Most gardens, however are rather small, and have other restrictions as well. Is it possible to create an all year blossoming garden with few varieties?

Creating a garden for all season interest means that your selection of plants will have to produce interesting foliage, flowers or fruits in all four seasons of the year. If you'd like to define in more detail, what interesting means in this context, you'll have to look into the features that can significantly differ from plant to plant. First there is the plants appearance, its shape, height and width, its growing habit and, of course, its colour.

For all season blooming areas, your plant selection will usually be a mix of annual plants, which last only one season and will have to be re-sown or replanted if you want to have them for another year, and of perennial plants, which overwinter and keep on growing and producing leaves, flowers and fruits year after year.

Apart from that, every garden should have at least one architectural feature. It is the focal point of the garden, and attracts instantaneous interest. This could be an outstanding plant, for instance a pampas grass, or it could be a sculpture or a hard landscaping feature like a pond, patio or piece of garden furniture.

Achieving this is not easy, especially if you are limited by the small size of your garden, or if you have a very limited space with limited growing conditions like a balcony. The art therefore is in restricting yourself what works in a small space.

Bulbs are suitable for the smallest of spaces, as long as they have enough available light, heat and water. For a small garden or balcony you could pick a selection of spring bulbs, like snowdrops, crocuses, daffodils, hyacinths and tulips, and mix them with some summer flowering bulbs like lilies, dahlias, begonias and gladioli.

Add another set of autumn flowering bulbs, like nerines, colchicum, cyclamen or saffron crocuses, can add the required colours for autumn to your balcony or garden. For balconies, simply mix a selection of each group in pots of differing size and shape into the growing compost and arrange them nicely, where they get rain water (i.e. not underneath shelters) and sufficient sun light, and all you have to do is waiting for the bulbs to grow and perform.

For gardens, you would like to achieve nicely designed borders and beds. Therefore, a mix of bulbs, herbaceous plants and perennials is ideal. Perennials will require less maintenance and still perform every year, while annuals give you a huge selection of colours, shapes and growing times to add them carefully to the borders.

As an architectural highlight of your garden, I'd like to suggest implementing a water feature. This will not only add a focal point to your garden, but also give you the tranquillity of running water if you power it with a pump, which is so relaxing when you sit out there on your bench and relax after a good days work.

I'm passionate about gardening and trying to realize my ideas in different garden projects in the vicinity. Creating a wonderful environment for other people according to their desires is a very rewarding work. I'm also writing about gardening, for instance in my blogs http://gardenlatest.blogspot.com/ and http://www.greenveggiespot.blogspot.com/.

View the original article here

Tree Pruning And Trimming Services For The Best Results

Experts performing tree pruning and trimming services make it seem easy, but there is so much more to it than just cutting here and there. While some tasks can be done on your own using your pruners and saws, most of them are best left to the pros. According to the experts, the right pruning and trimming has to do with what portions to cut, how much, and when to do it.

The terms trimming and pruning are often interchangeably used to denote cutting trees, but for clarification, just remember trimming has to do with grooming. Pruning has to do with the tree's health, as well as the safety of people and structures near the tree.

Cutting Classifications

People have tree pruning and trimming services for four general classifications, two of which have to do with trimming and the others related to pruning. The first, trimming or fine pruning, entails cutting to improve the tree's appearance. The second, standard pruning, involves more cutting to improve the tree's structure.

The third, safety pruning or hazard pruning, is one where branches are removed because of safety considerations. When branches hang too low causing any danger, those trees are pruned. The fourth, crown reduction, involves removing the branches on the tops or sides of trees. This is usually done to prevent trees from reaching utility lines or damaging roofs, and to allow air and sunlight to reach the inner branches.

Pruning the Right Way

Tree pruning and trimming services, when done by trained professionals, ensure that your trees are pruned correctly and efficiently. If you intend to do the pruning on your own, refrain from using climbing spurs, which can damage tree trunks and barks. See to it that the barks on the edges of the pruning cuts are still attached firmly. As for large, heavy branches, make sure to cut them in sections to prevent the bark from tearing or splitting. Remember to use ropes to lower the large branches do not throw them to the ground.

Pruning the Right Time

You can have tree pruning and trimming services at any time of the year these services depend on the kinds of trees you have. Flowering trees that bloom in spring can be trimmed or pruned right after they flowering. Those that bloom in summer have to be pruned in early spring. It is recommended to prune fruit-bearing trees during late winter to give them shape and allow sunlight to shine on the tree's center.

Hardwood trees or shrubs without flowers are best pruned in the dormant season, during late fall or winter. As for dead branches, these can be cut at any time of the year.

Tree Pruning and Trimming Services from the Experts

Cutting tree branches is not as simple as it appears. It is a risky situation that, without the proper tools and equipment, can lead to accidents. When doing the pruning and trimming yourself, make sure to fasten yourself to a tree using at least two secure points. Work with someone who will raise the cutting tools to you. Keep yourself protected with gloves, safety glasses, and a hard hat.

If everything else fails, do not fret there are always professionals who are willing and able to do tree pruning and trimming services for you.

Tree trimming services are important to keep the trees in your yard looking great and healthy. If you have a tree that is damaged you should consider a tree removal service to ensure it will not damage your home during a storm or heavy wind.

View the original article here

What You Need to Know About Square Hydrangeas

Have you noticed that peculiar cubical block of hydrangea flowers in the hotel concierge desk or in a fancy restaurant? Did the stunning square arrangement make you stop? It is unique and may look hard to do, but it isn't. All you need are hydrangeas and oasis. Oasis is a type of floral foam which is soaked in water for fresh flowers. It can also be used for silk or fake flowers. To prepare the floral foam, pre-soak it in water until it becomes heavy. Depending on the thickness, it usually takes fifteen to thirty minutes to prepare the floral foam before you stick flowers in it.

You can do this dramatic hydrangea square arrangement if you grow tired of seeing the same old vase of flowers. You can use the hydrangea of your choice -- endless summer hydrangea, vanilla strawberry hydrangea, nikko blue hydrangea, pinky winky hydrangea, oak leaf hydrangea, etc. - whichever you prefer as they can all be accommodated and showcased beautifully by the square arrangement.

Make sure first that you have the cut hydrangeas soaked in cold water while you are doing this.

Measure the pre-soaked oasis. Use a knife to cut it, and make sure that it is a perfect cube. Break some small wood skewers and stick four of them in the corners of the squared off floral foam. The sticks will secure the floral foam so it remains balanced. The sticks must be pushed all the way down the floral foam. Insert the little flowers onto the oasis until you cover the top and the four sides.

Always start from the top before you work the sides of the floral foam cube. The hydrangeas need to be pushed in as far as you can. The square arrangement has to end up with a flattened and compact look. If you cannot get the thin stems in, use the skewer to make a hole onto the floral foam. The hole must hold the stem securely, so make sure that the skewer you are using does not have a bigger diameter than the flower stem.

Once you're done, put the hydrangea square arrangement on a plate with water. This unique flower arrangement looks sculpted and elegant. You may blend multicolored hydrangeas or use plain white ones or same-colored ones. Put it on your mantel or on the dinner table and watch how your guests will gush.

Start to read on well-researched and continuously updated articles regarding hydrangeas.

View the original article here